US Garden Calendar 2026 ▷ Month-by-Month Planting Guide

How to Use This Calendar

Before diving into monthly tasks, note your two most important dates:

• Average last frost date — the date after which frost is unlikely in spring. This determines when tender plants can safely go outdoors.
• Average first frost date — the date in fall when the first killing frost typically arrives. This determines your growing season end and when to bring tender plants inside.

Both dates are available from your local cooperative extension service or via the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Once you know your frost dates, use this calendar as your framework — advancing tasks by a week or two if you are in Zone 8–9, or pushing them back if you are in Zone 5–6.

Spring: March — May

Spring is the busiest season in any garden. Soil warms, days lengthen, and the window to plant cool-season crops opens and closes quickly. Miss it and you will be waiting until fall for another shot at lettuce, peas and spinach.

March: Waking the Garden Up

• Start seeds indoors: tomatoes, peppers and eggplants need 6–8 weeks of indoor growing before transplanting. In Zone 7, start them in early March. In Zone 5–6, wait until mid-March. Use a heat mat to maintain soil at 75–80°F for germination.
• Direct-sow cool-season crops: peas, spinach, kale, lettuce and radishes can go into the ground as soon as soil is workable (above 40°F). They tolerate light frosts. In Zone 7, this is usually possible by mid-March.
• Prune roses and deciduous shrubs: cut roses back by one-third before new growth pushes. Remove dead, damaged and crossing branches. Do not prune spring-flowering shrubs like forsythia and lilac — you will remove this year's flower buds.
• Amend soil: spread 2–3 inches of compost over garden beds and rake it in. If you did not test your soil last fall, March is a good time — results take 2–3 weeks and you will have time to make adjustments before planting.
• Lawn: apply pre-emergent herbicide before soil temperature reaches 55°F to prevent crabgrass germination. Do not aerate or fertilize cool-season lawns yet — wait until soil is actively growing.

April: First Outdoor Plantings

• Transplant cool-season vegetables: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts transplants (started in February or purchased) go out in early April for Zone 7. They handle light frost. Harden them off over 7 days before planting.
• Plant potatoes: cut seed potatoes into pieces with 2–3 eyes each and plant 3–4 inches deep in loose, well-drained soil. April 1–15 is ideal for Zones 6–7.
• Fertilize lawns: once your cool-season lawn is actively growing (soil above 50°F), apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer at the rate recommended on the label. Avoid high nitrogen on warm-season lawns — wait until May–June.
• Divide perennials: hostas, daylilies, ornamental grasses and coneflowers can be divided now before they get too large. Dig, split with a sharp spade and replant divided sections with fresh compost.
• Plant onion sets and transplants: onions need a long growing season. Plant sets or transplants in early April in Zones 6–7 for a July–August harvest.

May: Peak Planting Month

• Transplant warm-season vegetables: once nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 50°F and you are past your last frost date, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash and eggplants go out. For most of Zone 7, this is May 1–15. In Zone 5–6, wait until May 15–30.
• Direct-sow beans, corn and squash: these crops dislike root disturbance and grow best from direct seed. Soil should be above 60°F. Plant beans in rows 18 inches apart; corn in blocks of at least 4 rows for good pollination.
• Mulch everything: apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch (wood chips, straw or shredded leaves) around transplants and established plants. Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds and moderates soil temperature.
• Install drip irrigation: if you have not set up irrigation yet, May is your last comfortable window before summer heat arrives. Drip systems pay for themselves in water savings and reduced watering time over the summer.
• Plant summer flowers: zinnias, marigolds, sunflowers, cosmos and dahlias all go out in May after last frost. These form the backbone of a summer cutting garden and provide nectar for pollinators.

Summer: June — August

Summer gardening shifts from planting to maintaining. Heat and drought stress are the main challenges, and your primary tools are mulch, consistent watering and watchful pest management.

June: Establish and Protect

• Water deeply and consistently: most vegetables need 1–1.5 inches of water per week in June. Water at the base of plants in the morning. Deep, infrequent watering (every 2–3 days) is better than shallow daily watering.
• Stake tomatoes and tall flowers: if you have not already installed cages or stakes, do it now before tomato plants get heavy with foliage. Disturbing established roots later causes more damage than staking early.
• Succession plant for fall: sow a second round of beans, beets, carrots and summer squash in early June for a September harvest.
• Harvest frequently: zucchini, cucumbers and beans must be harvested every 2–3 days once production starts. Leaving overripe fruit on the plant signals it to stop producing new fruit.
• Check for pests: Japanese beetles appear in June across the Midwest and East. Handpick in the morning when they are sluggish, or use row covers to protect vulnerable plants. Aphids spike in early summer — knock off with a strong water spray or apply insecticidal soap.

July: Maintenance Mode

• Deep watering is critical: in most of the country, July is the hottest month. Lawns and established shrubs need 1–2 inches per week. Water slowly so it penetrates 6–8 inches, not just the surface.
• Mow high: raise mower height to 3.5–4 inches for cool-season grasses. Taller grass shades its own roots, retains moisture and is more heat-tolerant. Avoid fertilizing cool-season lawns in July — they are semi-dormant.
• Start fall brassicas: for a fall harvest of broccoli, cabbage and kale, start seeds indoors in late July. They will be ready to transplant in 4–5 weeks, going out in late August for fall production.
• Collect and dry herbs: basil, oregano, thyme and rosemary are at peak potency just before they flower. Harvest in the morning, bundle and hang to dry in a warm, ventilated space.
• Watch for heat stress: wilting at midday is normal in heat; wilting that does not recover by evening is a sign of moisture deficit. Check soil moisture 2 inches down before watering — the goal is consistently moist, not soggy.

August: Harvest and Plan Ahead

• Peak harvest season: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, melons and sweet corn reach their peak in August. Check plants daily. Overripe tomatoes split and attract pests; underripe peppers never fully develop their flavor.
• Plant fall cool-season vegetables: direct-sow spinach, lettuce, arugula, radishes and beets now for harvest from October through first frost. Count 6–8 weeks back from your first fall frost date to determine your planting deadline.
• Order spring bulbs: tulip, daffodil and hyacinth bulbs sell out fast. Order in August for September–November planting.
• Plan lawn renovation: for cool-season lawns that are thin or patchy, August is the time to buy seed for early September overseeding — the best time of year for lawn establishment.
• Save seeds: let one or two of your favorite open-pollinated tomatoes, peppers and beans fully mature and dry on the plant. Collect, dry thoroughly and store in paper envelopes in a cool, dry location.

Fall: September — November

Fall is the second active growing season, especially valuable in Zones 6–9 where mild weather extends well into October. It is also the best time to plant trees, shrubs, spring bulbs and perennials — giving roots all winter to establish before the demands of spring growth.

September: Second Growing Season

• Overseed cool-season lawns: early September is the single best time to establish new grass or thicken thin lawns in Zones 5–7. Soil is warm from summer, air is cool, and fall rains reduce watering needs. Core-aerate first if the lawn is compacted.
• Transplant fall vegetables: broccoli, kale, collards and Brussels sprouts started in July go out now. Give them a dose of balanced fertilizer at planting to support root establishment before cold arrives.
• Plant trees and shrubs: fall planting gives woody plants 6–8 weeks of root growth before the ground freezes, giving them a head start over spring-planted specimens. Water well through the first fall if rain is scarce.
• Reduce irrigation gradually: as temperatures drop, plants need less water. Adjust programmers by 20–30% in September and continue reducing through October. Lawns in Zones 7+ may still need irrigation through mid-October.

October: Plant for Next Spring

• Plant spring bulbs: tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, alliums and crocuses go in the ground in October, once soil consistently stays below 55°F. Plant tulips 6–8 inches deep; small bulbs 3–4 inches deep. Mark locations so you do not disturb them in spring.
• Collect fallen leaves: run the mower over leaves to shred them and blow the pieces onto garden beds as free mulch. Alternatively, pile them in a corner to decompose into leaf mold — one of the best soil amendments available.
• Final lawn mow: mow cool-season grasses at their normal height (around 3 inches) for the last time before dormancy. Do not mow too short — taller grass going into winter protects crowns from freeze damage.
• Plant garlic: October is the prime month for planting garlic across most of the US. Plant individual cloves 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart, pointy end up. Mulch with 3–4 inches of straw after planting.

November: Winter Preparation

• Protect tender plants: wrap marginally hardy shrubs (fig trees, crape myrtles in Zone 6) with burlap or horticultural fleece before the first hard freeze. Mulch the base of borderline-hardy perennials with 4–6 inches of straw after the ground freezes.
• Drain irrigation systems: in zones where temperatures drop below freezing, winterize drip and sprinkler systems before Thanksgiving. Blow out lines with compressed air or open drain valves to prevent burst pipes.
• Plant cover crops on bare soil: sow annual ryegrass, crimson clover or winter rye on any empty vegetable beds to prevent erosion, suppress weeds and add nitrogen when tilled in spring.
• Tool maintenance: clean, dry and oil all metal tools before storage. Sharpen hoe and spade edges. Drain and store hoses indoors. Clean and lightly oil pruning shears to prevent rust.

Winter: December — February

Winter appears quiet, but the best gardeners stay productive through the cold months with planning, structural work and early seed-starting.

• Order seeds early: January seed catalogs carry the widest selection. Popular open-pollinated and heirloom varieties sell out. Order what you want before February.
• Start onions and leeks: these slow-growing crops need 10–12 weeks indoors before transplanting. In Zones 5–7, start them under grow lights in late January.
• Prune fruit trees: deciduous fruit trees (apple, pear, peach, cherry) are pruned during dormancy, December through February. Remove crossing branches, suckers and branches growing into the canopy center.
• Test and plan: January is the best month to soil-test beds and plan crop rotations. Avoid planting the same plant family in the same bed two years running — especially solanums (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes) and brassicas.
• Protect container plants: ceramic and terracotta pots crack in hard freezes. Move them into a garage or shed, or wrap them in bubble wrap. Even dormant plants in containers need occasional watering if kept in a heated space.

Zone Quick-Reference Table

Task	Zone 5–6	Zone 7	Zone 8–9
Last frost (avg)	May 1–15	Apr 1–15	Feb 15–Mar 15
Start tomatoes indoors	Mid-March	Early March	Late Jan–Feb
Transplant tomatoes out	May 20–Jun 1	May 1–15	Mar 15–Apr 15
Plant spring bulbs	Oct 1–Nov 1	Oct 15–Nov 15	Nov 1–Dec 1
Overseed lawn	Sep 1–15	Sep 1–Sep 20	Sep 15–Oct 15
Plant garlic	Oct 1–15	Oct 15–Nov 1	Nov 1–Dec 1

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to plant grass seed in the US?

The best time depends on your grass type. Cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass) are best seeded in early fall (late August through October) in Zones 5–7, when soil is still warm but air temperatures are cooling. Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, zoysia, St. Augustine) should be planted in late spring or early summer (May–June) when soil temperatures consistently exceed 65°F. Avoid seeding any grass in midsummer heat or in frozen winter soil.

How do I adapt this calendar to my USDA hardiness zone?

Use zone adjustments of roughly 2 weeks per zone step. If you are in Zone 7 and the calendar says 'plant tomatoes after May 15,' shift that to around May 1. Zone 9 gardeners can often plant 4–6 weeks earlier than Zone 5 gardeners for the same crop. The most reliable approach is to note your average last frost date (available from your local extension service) and count backward from that date using seed packet instructions.

What are the most important spring gardening tasks?

The top spring priorities are: (1) soil preparation — add 2–3 inches of compost to beds before planting; (2) start warm-season seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before last frost; (3) apply pre-emergent herbicide to lawns before soil reaches 55°F; (4) prune winter-damaged branches once new growth appears; (5) divide and transplant overcrowded perennials while they are still dormant.

How often should I water my garden in summer?

Most gardens need the equivalent of 1 inch of water per week, whether from rain or irrigation. In hot weather above 90°F, that can increase to 1.5–2 inches. The best approach is to water deeply and infrequently — for example, 30–45 minutes two or three times per week rather than a short daily session. Deep watering encourages roots to grow downward, making plants more drought-tolerant. Water in the morning to minimize evaporation and reduce fungal disease risk.

Can I do anything useful in the garden during winter?

Absolutely. Winter is ideal for: planning next year's layout and ordering seeds (January catalogs are the best selection); planting bare-root trees and shrubs in zones 7–9 where ground doesn't freeze; pruning dormant fruit trees and roses (December–February); spreading a thick layer of compost or aged manure over empty beds so it incorporates over winter; and cleaning, sharpening and oiling tools. In zones 5–6, you can also start onions and leeks under grow lights in January.