▷ What to plant in April by USDA hardiness zone
Zone 5–6: April is still early — start indoors and plant hardy crops
For gardeners in Zone 5–6 (upper Midwest, New England, mid-Atlantic highlands, Great Plains), April is a month of two phases. The first half of April is still too cold for warm-season crops outdoors — last frost dates range from late April to mid-May in this zone. Focus on: direct-sowing hardy vegetables outdoors (peas, spinach, kale, lettuce, radishes, carrots); starting tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cucumbers, and squash indoors under grow lights; and hardening off any seedlings started in February and March by moving them outside during warm days and bringing them back in at night.
By late April, Zone 6 gardeners can plant out cold-hardy transplants like broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and onion sets. A lightweight frost cloth or row cover gives you a 4–6°F buffer against late frosts, letting you get a jump on the season without gambling on losing transplants.
Zone 7–8: prime spring planting window
Zone 7–8 (Mid-Atlantic coast, Pacific Northwest lowlands, much of the Southeast and lower Midwest) is in its sweet spot in April. Last frost dates fall between mid-March and mid-April in this zone, meaning late April is generally safe for most transplanting. You can: plant tomato and pepper transplants outdoors in late April (keep frost cloth on hand for rare late cold snaps); direct-sow warm-season beans and summer squash; transplant warm-season herb starts (basil, rosemary, thyme); and plant warm-season annual flowers (zinnias, marigolds, lantana). Cool-season crops (lettuce, peas, spinach) are racing against the clock — get them in early April before summer heat arrives.
Zone 9–11: transition to warm-season crops
In Zone 9–11 (Florida, Gulf Coast, Southern California, Hawaii, low desert Southwest), April marks the transition away from cool-season crops (which are bolting in the heat) toward heat-tolerant warm-season plants. April is the time to: direct-sow heat-tolerant crops (Malabar spinach, cowpeas, okra, sweet potatoes); transplant heat-tolerant tomato varieties; start succession plantings of summer squash and beans every 2–3 weeks for continuous harvest; and establish drought-tolerant perennial herbs (rosemary, thyme, oregano) before summer heat intensifies. In South Florida and Hawaii, April is not too late for a quick planting of fast-maturing summer varieties before the rains arrive.
Cool-season vegetables to plant in April
These crops grow best when temperatures are between 45–75°F and can tolerate light frost. They are the workhorses of the April garden in Zone 5–8 and should be planted promptly before summer heat causes them to bolt (produce flowers and seed prematurely, which makes leaves bitter and inedible).
| Crop | Direct Sow or Transplant | Days to Harvest | Frost Tolerance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lettuce (leaf) | Direct sow or transplant | 30–45 days | Tolerates light frost (28°F) |
| Spinach | Direct sow | 35–45 days | Hardy to 20°F when established |
| Peas (snap/snow) | Direct sow | 55–70 days | Hardy to 28°F |
| Radishes | Direct sow | 22–30 days | Tolerates light frost |
| Kale | Direct sow or transplant | 50–65 days | Very hardy to 20°F |
| Broccoli (transplant) | Transplant only | 55–80 days from transplant | Hardy to 26°F |
Warm-season crops to start indoors in April
For Zone 5–6 gardeners, April is the ideal month to start warm-season crops indoors if you did not already do so in March. These crops need 6–8 weeks of indoor growth before they can be transplanted outside after the last frost. Starting them now (early to mid-April) means they will be ready to go out in late May to early June — prime planting time for Zone 5–6.
Start indoors in April: cucumbers (3–4 weeks before transplant — they grow fast and do not like being pot-bound); summer squash and zucchini (2–3 weeks before transplant — they also resent being pot-bound, so do not start too early); melons (3–4 weeks, needs heat for germination — use a heat mat); basil (4 weeks, very tender, needs warmth); and eggplant if you did not start in March. Keep all of these at 70–75°F for germination and reduce to 65°F after sprouts emerge.
Miracle-Gro Seed Starting Potting Mix — 8 Qt
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Flowers and bulbs to plant in April
April is one of the best months for the flower garden. Hardy annual flowers can be direct-sown outdoors, summer bulbs can go in the ground in warmer zones, and tender annuals can be started indoors in colder zones. Direct-sow outside in April (all zones once soil is workable): sweet peas, larkspur, bachelor's buttons (cornflower), California poppies, nasturtiums (Zone 7+), and love-in-a-mist (Nigella). Plant summer bulbs (once soil is above 55°F): dahlias (Zone 7+ in late April, Zone 5–6 wait until May), gladiolus, cannas, calla lilies, and begonia tubers. Start indoors in Zone 5–6: zinnias, marigolds, petunias, snapdragons, and impatiens — all need 6–8 weeks before safe outdoor transplanting.
Pansies, violas, and ornamental kale planted in early spring as cool-weather annuals are excellent for filling beds with color while you wait for summer flowers. They tolerate temperatures down to the mid-20s and will bloom continuously through spring. Remove spent flowers regularly to extend the bloom period. Expect them to fade as temperatures consistently exceed 75°F.
Seeds vs transplants: which is right for April planting?
The decision between direct-sowing seeds and buying or growing transplants depends on crop type, your zone, and what time of season it is. Direct sow when: the crop does not transplant well (carrots, peas, beans, squash, cucumbers — all have fragile roots that resent disturbance); when the crop grows so fast that starting indoors offers no real time advantage (radishes, lettuce, spinach); or when you need large volumes economically (seed is far cheaper than transplants per plant).
Use transplants when: you are starting frost-sensitive crops before last frost in a cold zone; when the crop has a very long growing season that benefits from an indoor head start (tomatoes need 6–8 weeks, peppers 8–10 weeks); or when you want a single specimen of a specific variety and buying one transplant is more practical than growing a tray of seed.
Burpee Seed Starting Kit — Peat Pellets and Tray
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- ✓ Transparent dome maintains humidity for fast germination
April planting table by crop and zone
| Crop | Zone 5–6 | Zone 7–8 | Zone 9–11 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tomatoes | Start indoors | Transplant late Apr | Transplant now |
| Peas | Direct sow now | Direct sow early Apr | Too late (heat) |
| Lettuce | Direct sow now | Direct sow early Apr | Use bolt-resistant varieties |
| Cucumbers | Start indoors | Start indoors / direct sow late Apr | Direct sow now |
| Dahlias | Wait until May | Plant late April | Plant now |
Soil prep and seed-starting tips for April
Before direct sowing any seed outside, test soil moisture. Grab a handful of soil from 2 inches deep and squeeze. If it forms a ball and crumbles when tapped, it is ready to work. If it stays in a wet, sticky ball, wait — working wet soil destroys its structure. If it falls apart without forming a ball at all, it may be too dry or too sandy; add compost to improve moisture retention.
For seed-starting indoors, use a dedicated seed-starting mix — not potting soil and never garden soil. Seed-starting mix is finer, lighter, and better draining than potting soil, which helps prevent damping-off disease (the number one cause of seedling death indoors). Use clean containers (wash used containers with a 10% bleach solution) and water from the bottom when possible to keep the soil surface dry. Provide 14–16 hours of light per day using a grow light suspended 2–3 inches above the seedling tops.
Burpee Spring Garden Seed Collection — 10 Variety Pack
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- ✓ Great for both direct sowing and indoor seed starting
Harden off all indoor-started seedlings before transplanting outside. Hardening off is the process of gradually acclimating indoor seedlings to outdoor conditions — wind, direct sun, and temperature swings. Start by setting seedlings outside in a sheltered, partly shaded spot for 1 hour on day 1, then increase outdoor exposure by 1–2 hours per day over 7–10 days until they are spending full days outside. Never put soft, leggy indoor seedlings directly into full sun or strong wind — the stress will set them back by weeks.